Royal Connection

Watts' royal legacy

Since 1874, Watts & Co. has had the distinct honour of designing and handcrafting bespoke vestments for some of the most significant royal events in British history. We have been a trusted partner for royal jubilees and coronations, our work being synonymous with craftsmanship, tradition, and reverence.

Queen Victoria’s Jubilee

Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee: a historic launch

One of the most pivotal commissions of the 19th century, which brought Watts & Co. firmly into the nation’s consciousness, was the creation of a set of copes for Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 1887. This was also a significant moment for the Abbey, as liturgical vestments had fallen in and out of favour over the centuries as different currents of the English Reformation swept through. This new set played a pivotal part in confirming a confident return to tradition. 

Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. Painting by William Ewart Lockhart.

The firm was again entrusted with designing vestments for Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897, creating exquisite hand-embroidered copes that solidified Watts & Co.'s reputation for producing some of the finest ecclesiastical garments in the country.

A tradition of coronations

Watts & Co. cemented its place as the vestment designer par excellence when the company was asked to create vestments for the coronation of Edward VII in 1902. Among these were several copes, including one crafted from the firm’s exclusive ‘Rose & Crown’ fabric—now known as ‘Coronation’—designed specifically for the occasion.

These crimson velvet copes, adorned with a regal design of flowers and crowns, intricately rendered in Japanese gold thread embroidery, were made to complement the hangings for the high altar for this service. The same copes were later used for the coronation of George V and George VI. Today, along with newer commissions, they continue to serve in royal functions, exemplifying the enduring elegance of Watts’ work. 

The original ‘Rose and Crown’ design was reinterpreted in more recent times in a striking red and gold damask. Renamed ‘Coronation’, this exclusive fabric woven in England remains a unique element of our bespoke commissions.

Coronation of Edward VII. The Anointing of Queen Alexandra by John Byam Liston Shaw.

The hand-embroidered 'Rose & Crown' cope.

Queen Elizabeth II: a new chapter in royal vestments

As the monarchy entered the middle of the 20th century, Watts & Co. continued its royal partnership, most notably for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. A stunning array of vestments was crafted for the occasion, including copes for the Bishop of Durham and the Bishop of Bath & Wells. Renowned designer Keith Murray created eye-catching copes for the four Canons, which married traditional emblems with contemporary design. A lion and unicorn rampant, representing England and Scotland, feature boldly on either side of the cope fronts on a background of azure blue and gold. One of the copes is on permanent display in the Queen's Diamond Jubilee Galleries in Westminster Abbey.

Over sixty-two weeks, a dedicated team of six embroiderers also worked tirelessly on an altar frontal presented by Queen Elizabeth II to Westminster Abbey for the occasion. This masterpiece, sewn in Watts’ signature blue ‘Gothic’ Silk Damask, remains as a symbol of craftsmanship and royal dedication and is still in use today.

The Unicorn embroidery from Keith Murray's coronation copes.

A selection of coronation copes on display in Watts' old showroom.

Watts in the 21st century: a modern legacy

The wedding of the Prince & Princess of Wales

Watts continued its tradition of royal commissions with the wedding of the Prince and Princess of Wales in 2011. A magnificent cope was made for the Archbishop of Canterbury for the royal occasion in our striking red and gold ‘Pugin Gothic Tapestry’ and featured an original archive embroidered angel on the hood. The royal couple’s kneeler was made in Watts’ exclusive ‘Bellini’ silk damask.

The Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II

In 2012 Watts & Co. undertook several prestigious projects for the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. A new ‘Windsor Cloth of Gold’ fabric was designed, incorporating the Royal Cypher of Queen Elizabeth II, which was also used to create copes for St George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle. This design was a fitting tribute to the Queen’s six decades on the throne.

The coronation of King Charles III

In 2023, Watts & Co. was once again entrusted with a significant role in royal proceedings. For the coronation of King Charles III, Watts recreated the ceremonial gowns of the High Steward and High Bailiff. Each gown was made from luxurious velvet and bespoke silks and braids, a truly bespoke design that balanced functionality with tradition and grandeur.

Iconic restorations: the Coronation Chair and beyond

Watts & Co. provided the sumptuous ecclesiastical vestments for the coronation of Edward VII in 1902, and have continued to produce designs for every coronation to the present day. Keith Murray’s 1953 copes for the coronation of Elizabeth II were especially striking, marking a bold transition towards embracing modernism and adapting its minimalism to traditional designs.

Some of the most important church architects of the twentieth century, including John Ninian Comper, Ralph Adams Cram, Walter Tapper and Stephen Dykes-Bower, used Watts designs exclusively in both Britain and America. Further afield, Edwin Lutyens commissioned bespoke designs from Watts & Co. for the viceregal thrones at Government House in New Delhi.

Through the years, Watts & Co. has been at the heart of royal ceremonial life, in particular at Westminster Abbey and the Chapels Royal. We continually demonstrate our dedication to tradition, innovation, and the highest standards of craftsmanship. We remain proud to be a part of history, creating pieces that honour the past and inspire future generations.